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Nick Davis is the owner of 239 Flies, a fly shop located in Bonita Beach, Florida, and a skilled fly tier and fishing guide who specializes in saltwater fly fishing techniques for species like tarpon, bonefish, and redfish in Southwest Florida and the Keys. In this How To Tuesday episode, Nick demonstrates a critical skill that can turn a zero-fish day into a successful outing: how to add a weed guard to an already-tied fly. You'll discover the exact pound test monofilament Nick recommends for different situations, the one tool trick that makes this process dramatically easier for non-fly-tiers, and why weed guards have a "mixed relationship" with hook performance. If you've ever been frustrated by follows that never turn into eats because your fly keeps fouling with grass, this episode reveals the solution you can implement tonight in your garage.
Start by putting the finished fly in a vice and creating a thread base on the hook shank. Use debarbed pliers to flatten one end of Mason hard mono (30-50 pound test depending on density of cover), then tie the flattened section down. Wrap thread around the weed guard three to four times behind it, then pull to push it toward 90 degrees. Measure by bending the mono along the hook curve and trim at the barb, not the point, then whip finish and seal with UV resin.
Nick Davis is the owner of 239 Flies, a fly shop located at 3431 Bonita Beach Road in Bonita Beach, Florida. He is a skilled fly tier and fishing guide who specializes in saltwater fly fishing techniques for species like tarpon, bonefish, and redfish in Southwest Florida and the Keys, and shares practical fly fishing knowledge on the Tom Rowland Podcast.
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Nick Davis opens this tutorial with a philosophical point that changes how you think about weed guards entirely. As he explains while demonstrating on an EP tarpon streamer, weed guards are designed to stop the hook from doing exactly what the hook was made to do. This creates a fundamental tension: you need protection from weeds, but too much protection can turn your weed guard into a fish guard. Nick shares his approach to finding the right balance, including why he never goes heavier than 40-pound Mason hard mono for single-strand applications and when you might drop all the way down to 15 or 20 pound for mangrove situations. The key is understanding that depression is actually desirable—the mono needs to push out of the way when a fish eats. Nick's full explanation of the weed guard paradox and how to avoid turning it into a fish guard starts at 03:44.
If you've ever tried to tie round monofilament onto a round hook shank, you know the frustration—it slides, it spins, it refuses to stay put. Nick reveals the simple trick that makes this process easy even for non-fly-tiers: flattening the mono with debarbed pliers. As he demonstrates, debarbed pliers are perfect for this because they're not sharp enough to cut the mono, they only press it flat. This creates a square-to-round tie-in point that grips the hook shank instead of sliding around. Tom emphasizes that while debarbed pliers are ideal, any pliers that can smash the monofilament flat will work. Nick even drops the bobbin at the start of the demo, joking "that's really good for it" and "that's definitely how you wanna start every fly." Watch Nick flatten the mono and explain why this one step eliminates hours of frustration at 04:26.
See Nick demonstrate the debarbed pliers technique that makes tying weed guards easy
The measurement step separates functional weed guards from those that either snag constantly or fail to protect. Nick explains that you need to follow the memory of the mono and bend the curve back with the hook, visualizing how weeds will slide along that curve when the fly is pulled through the water. The critical measurement point surprises many anglers: you trim at the barb of the hook, not the point. As Nick demonstrates, if you cut it right at the hook point, the weed guard isn't long enough—when it depresses even slightly under pressure, you'll leave the hook point exposed and start snagging. The wrapping technique also matters: Nick wraps his thread around the weed guard three to four times behind it, then pulls to push it more perpendicular to the hook shank. The complete measuring and positioning sequence, including why perpendicular matters, starts at 08:03.
Weekly insights on fishing strategy, conservation, and the disciplines that transfer across pursuits.
SubscribeTom shares a critical insight about travel preparation that applies whether you're heading to the Keys or a remote location with no fly shop access. He emphasizes taking a spool of Mason hard mono and a bobbin on every trip, especially to places without resources. As he explains, you could arrive and discover that every cast results in grass on your fly, with follows and follows but no eats from tarpon, bonefish, or redfish. Having the ability to add weed guards at night back at your accommodation can transform the next day from frustration to success. Nick agrees this is essential travel gear, invoking fire department wisdom: "Better to have it, not need it than need it, and not have it." The conversation makes clear this isn't about being a skilled fly tier—it's about having the tools to adapt to conditions and customize flies when the situation demands it. Tom's complete breakdown of the essential travel kit for fly customization starts at 09:44.
This is exactly the kind of How To Tuesday episode that puts practical skills in your hands. Nick Davis breaks down a technique that might seem intimidating but becomes completely manageable once you understand the key steps. I've been in those situations where you're getting follows but the fly keeps picking up grass, and it's maddening. Having the ability to add a weed guard to your existing flies—right there at your accommodation or even on the boat—is a game-changer.
What I really appreciate about Nick's approach is his honesty about the weed guard paradox. He doesn't oversell it as a perfect solution. He explains that you're deliberately interfering with hook performance, which means you need to think carefully about pound test and positioning. That kind of nuanced understanding separates guides who know their craft from people just going through motions.
If you're planning any trip to weedy water—whether that's the Keys, Southwest Florida, or anywhere else where grass is a factor—watch this episode and practice the technique before you go. Take that spool of mono and bobbin with you. You'll thank yourself when conditions demand it. This one's absolutely worth your time.
Nick Davis recommends 30-50 pound Mason hard mono depending on weed density, with 40 pound being his maximum for single-strand applications. For light mangrove protection where you just need to work flies around branches, you can drop to 15-20 pound test to ensure the mono easily depresses when a fish eats.
Debarbed pliers are ideal because they flatten the round monofilament without cutting it, creating a square-to-round tie-in point that grips the hook shank instead of sliding around. While any pliers that can smash the mono flat will work, debarbed pliers are specifically designed to press without sharp edges that might damage the material.
Trim the weed guard at the barb of the hook, not at the point. If you cut it at the point, the guard is too short—when it depresses under pressure from weeds, the hook point becomes exposed and you'll start snagging. Measuring to the barb ensures adequate protection even when the mono bends.
Yes. Nick Davis explains that weed guards create a fundamental paradox—they're designed to stop hooks from doing what hooks are meant to do. If the monofilament is too stiff or positioned incorrectly, it can turn into a "fish guard" that prevents solid hooksets. The key is using appropriate pound test and ensuring the guard depresses easily when a fish eats.
You need a bobbin with thread, Mason hard mono in appropriate pound test, debarbed pliers or regular pliers to flatten the mono, a vice or bench vice to hold the fly, and UV resin or two-part epoxy to seal the thread wraps. Nick demonstrates that you don't need to be an expert fly tier to execute this technique successfully.
Expand your saltwater fly knowledge with advanced techniques for the species Nick targets
Learn more fundamental fly tying techniques that help you customize and repair flies on the water
Discover the weedy conditions Nick references and how to fish them effectively
Tom's complete guide to travel preparation, including essential tools for fly customization
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Nick Davis - Owner of 239 Flies, Bonita Beach, Florida
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About this Guest
Nick Davis is the owner of 239 Flies, a fly shop located at 3431 Bonita Beach Road in Bonita Beach, Florida. He is a skilled fly tier and fishing guide who specializes in saltwater fly fishing techniques for species like tarpon, bonefish, and redfish in Southwest Florida and the Keys. Nick shares practical fly fishing knowledge and techniques on the Tom Rowland Podcast, helping anglers improve their skills and adapt to challenging conditions on the water.
Connect: 239flies.com
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